Kota Doria is a special weave which originated in the western part of the country in the state of
Rajasthan. The weavers of this fabric were originally located at Kaithoon village in Kota district, which still is the leading producer of fabric .(1)
Kota Doria, also popularly known as Masuria Malmal, is lightweight, breezy, soft and comfortable fabric, making it first choice for the high summer heat.
Kota Doria fabric consists of cotton and silk yarn woven in different combinations in warp and weft, so that they
produce square check patterns. This check pattern is popularly known as khat, and is the defining feature of
the fabric which gives it a transparent look.(2)
The production of Kota Doria is entirely household and artisanal-based. Households involved in the sector typically own one handloom, with 2-3 people in the household engaged in production. Handlooms can only utilise one 30-meter bundle of yarn at a time, which is enough to produce 5 saris. Production takes 20-25 days to weave this total bundle of yarn into simple fabric or saris and upto 30 days to produce more elaborate patterns(1) 80%weavers are women with low literacy level. This traditional knowledge of weaving is passed from one generation to another
Apart from woven zari-motifs, Block-prints and tie-dye are also used to embellish Kota-doriya fabrics. Block-printing on Kota-doria has led to development of new designs thus increasing its reach among customers and its market value.
From Sarees, Pagdis and safas to suits and Dupatta, diversification is the key to expansion.
SOURCE
- WOMEN EMPOWERMENT THROUGH PROTECTING AND PROMOTING BIOCULTURAL HERITAGES- CASE ANALYSIS OF KOTA DORIA
- Geographical Indications in India A Case Study of Kota Doria
